Backpacks in First Class: Observations about Phnom Penh and Cambodia

(Oct 29th)

Sunset cruise on the Mekong River

Our first observation about Cambodia is that it is substantially less developed than anywhere else we've been. This is not surprising, given that it was only 35 years ago that the oppressive Khmer Rouge regime ended, and as recently as this year that the former leaders have been brought to justice.

Buildings along the road in Phnom Penh

Outside the downtown areas of the city, homes often have three walls and are built on stilts or have a dirt floor. The walls are sometimes made out of woven bamboo or palm leaves or pieces of billboards or banners. They look like the smallest puff of wind would obliterate them.

Here is a summary of our observations about Phnom Penh so far.

Phnom Penh is known for its traffic. We had terrible traffic coming in from the airport, but it turns out Phnom Penh is actually a relaxed town to walk around (once you figure out that sidewalks are for parking motorbikes and that there are no apparent rules at intersections). There are limited taxis so the best way to get around is by tuk-tuk, which, unlike in Bangkok, do not try to take you to their friends' tailor/jewelry/souvenir shop. The riverfront area has lots of bars and restaurants. And unlike many places we've been, people actually GO to the bars and restaurants so it's more fun.

The beer is the cheapest we've found anywhere (50¢ to $2), and even upscale restaurants have most meals under $10.

The French influence from the colonial days is apparent. There are bakeries, we've seen baguettes about, and restaurants have affordable carafes of house wine.

The "Urban Resort" concept is really neat. Our hotel (The Plantation) described itself as an "Urban Resort and Spa." We figured that just meant that it had a pool and offered massages. Really it was more than that - after entering the complex off the street, the resort was built around two central courtyards each with a pool. There was a poolside bar, poolside cabanas, and best of all we couldn't even hear or see the busy street outside. All this for $60/night.

What the Khmer Rouge did to it's own people in the 1970s is really awful. They killed around 1 in 4 Cambodians and chose to execute people who were educated, smart, professional, doctors, even anyone who wore glasses. Now really, as if killing 25% of your population/workforce isn't crippling enough for your society, they killed the TOP 25% of their society. We visited the S21 genocide museum, which was a former school the Khmer Rouge turned into a prison, and reminded us very much of our visit to a Nazi concentration camp. We also visited the killing fields where in the 1970s millions of Cambodians we're bludgeoned and thrown into mass graves. When it rains, pieces of clothing from the victims and pieces of bones and teeth still work their way out of the soil, and can be seen on the paths. The Khmer Rouge tended to kill entire families, including children and babies, so there would be no one left to exact revenge later. Many Cambodians have some family members who never returned after that time and no one knows exactly what happened to them.

Room at the S21 Genocide Museum

At the Killing Fields

Mass graves at the Killing Fields

Skulls excavated from the mass grave

Cambodia runs on US dollars. Prices pretty much everywhere are quoted in USD, ATMs dispense USD, and you even get USD as change. The local currency is only used as "cents" for purchases or change under $1 (example: to pay for something that costs $1.75 you pay with 1 US dollar, and 3,000 Cambodian riel). Credit card charges go through in USD. While using the dollar is convenient, it sometimes puts a floor on prices for things. Small items on the street or a short tuk tuk ride are $1, whereas in some other Asian countries they might be less than $1. No big complaint, really.

Every car is a Camry. Well, only 90% maybe, and most of the rest are still Toyotas. The wealthy seem to like Lexus, Range Rover, and Land Rovers. It was a bit weird to see so many large vehicles after seeing small cars on most of out trip. Our cab driver (while stuck in stopped traffic) told us that most cars in Cambodia are imported used cars from the US. They all seemed to have automatic transmissions and most speedometers read in MPH. We rode in Camrys with 144,000 and 220,000 miles. All have been reupholstered and look great from the outside.

After 5 days in Phnom Penh we will venture out of the city (with a guide and driver) to Battambang and then Siem Reap.

And now, here are some pictures from our time in Phnom Penh.